Sunday, July 8, 2018

Steppes Artisan Cloak



The Steppes Artisan Cloak is a piece of regalia that was a collaboration of three artists. Lady Safiya Spizega wove the oak leave brocade trim, I did the construction, and Baroness Ekaterina Iadorovna Kharlampieva did all the applique. It was presented in court yesterday, at the 2018 Steppes Artisan Competition.

The cloak was designed as a 3/4 circle cloak of linen lined with linen, 41" long. As regalia, it needs to comfortably fit a variety of body types and heights.

To get started, I cut my wedges and sewed the top three together. I did the same with the three wedges of lining, but set that aside for later.

The brocade trim determined the curve of the neckline. Here you can see it laid out flat in the initial pinning.




Once the initial pinning was done, I pulled the front together to make sure everything was in line and then began sewing it down by hand, using a black linen thread.




Once the trim was attached, I pinned the outside to the lining and trimmed the neckline before sewing the two pieces together. Due to the timing, I did the construction on the machine, but all top-stitching was done by hand. I did a small running stitch down the front to help it lay flat, and then began the hem. Baroness Katya needed access to the inside for her applique work, so the decision was made to hem the exterior and the lining separately so that it would be both accessible and yet still finished.

My husband did the math, and the hem alone took approximately 14 yards of hand-sewing. And that doesn't include the running stitch on the front, or the trim attachment.




After this, the cloak was ready to be handed off, relay-race fashion, to Baroness Katya. Unfortunately, I forgot to take pictures of the finished version. I will post more as soon as I'm able to obtain them.

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